95 Toyota x-cab.

44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
This is a cross post, on other sites too.
I call it MOLOTOV 2
Ok, Here goes again.
After doing a 4 link on my 82,"MOLOTOV" http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545725
my focus got changed when I found a 95' X-cab for $200.
It was missing the 3rds, some glass, some interior stuff, motor/trans/case.
So my plans are to 4 link the rear, SAS, flat bed, High steer, 4.3L Vortec, And low gears,36's.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Found out the frame of the 95' was very rusty, and I really didnt want to deal with it, so lucky me I found a 90'
2wd X-cab roll over with a nice frame. Most all the other interior stuff I needed.

First Off was to get the cab off the 90 frame. Took it home and decided to start at the rear end. I chose to use the
rearend from a 86' parts truck. It was the one I shaved, trussed and bridged for the 82 I built. It has 4.88
Gears,Detroit, Monte Carlo calipers, Ruff Stuff brackets, Chev rotors. All brake lines were custom bent for protection.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
I use 1/4" for all my brackets.
The frame side brackets for the uppers were rec tube ripped diagonal, Then tied into
the stock crossmember for strenth, and 1/4x6 flat bar for the bolt tabs.They were cut in a "C" shape to max welding area.
I spaced the bolt holes 1" appart.
Most my cuts are done on a chop saw, messy but effective.
The Lower frame side mounts are a Tube crossmember w/ tube gussetts.
My links were covered in my first build, "MOLOTOV". They are 1 1/2" 1/4 wall DOM, and the lowers are sleeved with 1 3/4" HREW.
Ends are Currie Johnny Joints, and Delrin bushings.
Rear springs are Tru-Coil, My plan is to go air shocks soon.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Im trying to get you guys up to speed here.
Once the rear 4 link was in I knew I needed a fuel tank, because everyone knows a 4 link and a stock Toy tank wont fly.
So I decided to make my own, and utilize the useless space between the upper 2 links of a 4 link setup. The tank I built
was out of 14-16 gauge sheet, in the shape of a triangle. I took the stock filler, sender and pump bungs and welded them in,
The sender arm had to be shortened. I checked for leaks with water before welding the top on. Once the top was on I used air to
check for leaks. My tank mount suspends the tank from under the top rim. Calculations figure about 11 gal capacity.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Now to start on the front end. I wouldnt know, but I bet It was alot easier to torch the suspension off a 2wd than a 4wd. It didnt
take much time at all to remove all the 2wd front end.
Got a All Pro SAS kis for $125. I welded in the crossmember flush with the OE crossmember,
Cut the holes for frame tubes, Got every set with the springs as paralell as possible, then tacked and welded.Used some heavier
sheet metal to gusset the front crossmember. Went with
83' rear lift springs up front,w/ 6 leaves. Cut the lower springs on the chop saw to make them 3 1/2" shorter than the last.
Now I built a steering box mount, moved the box forward and rotated it as much as possible, a flat 2wd pitman will just clear.
I used the factory frame tubes to support the frame, they came out by holesawing them. Thats why the round plate on the side of
the frame behind box mount.The 3rd frame tube for the top of the box mount came from the pass side. 2wds use a diff mounting
location for steering box, so it had to be moved no matter what.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Well my 82' drove shitty on 36 sx's so im rebuilding my front axle. I didnt cover the building of my front housing very good
because I didnt even know if it was going to turn out. I shaved the housing, plated the pumpkin w/ 1/4"to look like something
else. Trussed it, boxed the perches, steering stops, Gusseted the knuckle balls. Relocated the drain plug to the top of the
housing for a fill hole. Moved the breather to the pass side axle tube. And did some custom plasma cutting. I spent a week welding
the truss and plating so I wouldnt heat the housing to much.I built a support and curb for the inner U bolt on the pass side.
Plasma cutter worked great to cut the center out of the backing plates. I picked up Cruiser rotors for $40pr, and used the
bigger V6 calipers, and 95' IFS hubs. The rotors had to be drilled for the mounting bolts to the hub.
Axle got a rebuild kit and a Powertrax locker w/4.88s. Went for TG highsteer arms, most affordable. Got DOM tierod and drag and
fj80 ends on pirate for $70 in awesome condition.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Motor mounts were made from square tube and round with delrin bushings, and moroso plates on the block side.
It was good to finally get the motor set in. I set it back as far as I thought I could without the cab on. There is 8 1/8" between the front crossmember and crank pulley, on my 94' CPI. The oil pan rail is about even with the highest point on the frame.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
The Astro headers were close to fitting but both collectors had to be cut off and relocated, Driver side was only rotated, and pass side was turned closer to the trans to miss the frame.
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Completed my transfercase mount. Its 3/8 plate, and .120 wall 1 3/4 tube. Poly bushings. Hole sawing those holes in 3/8 plate is a chore.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
TG was kool enough to exchange my 21 spline input for a 23 to fit my 4.7 gear. So I finally got it installed so I can put the trans case in for the last time.
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Picked up some U bolts too. And they threw in a huge sticker.
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Went for the Hammered paint, and baked it on.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
So this is where I try to get you back up to speed.
Finished the front end, and set the cab on.
Tow trucks are the shit, help is always good too.
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44newman

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
212
Location
Eastern OR
Once cab was on I finished the tunnel around the shifters.
Built a sch 40 black pipe front driveline.
Installed my MSD fuel pump.
Put on new brake lines from marlin
Shifter is a shortened 2000 camaro for my 700r4.
No it doesnt hit the dash, and neither do your knuckles.
Motor fit cab real nice, made one little hole for pass ex manifold

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