Toyodaaddict's 1980 Toyota "The Blue Truck"

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
Military style for sure.


Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.

Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.

Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.

One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.

The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.

Clean it up.
Cool, I'll give the military style a try.

You know what, I feel stupid to admit this but I bought a new oem EGR valve, when rebuilding the engine. I wasted entirely to much $$$ on this 22re.

I'm hesitant to start eliminating stuff. Im not all that confident in what I'm doing and two its a cali emissions system. Removing the egr will set off the check engine light, you know I cant have that Haha!
 

jprcrpr94

Active Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
2,451
Location
NE Tacoma
Military style for sure.


Get rid of the EGR. block it off on the head and manifold.

Get rid of ALL the vacuum lines except three of them.

Two larger ones that go to the steering pump. These are good.

One from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. This on is essential.

The rest are JUNK. I repeat, GARBAGE.

Clean it up.

Don't forget the brake booster
 

CHOP SHOP

Active Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
11,498
Location
pierce county
Don't forget the brake booster



Yeah brake booster is a given. PCV too an the valve cover breather, leave all that shit alone.


Get rid of the rest of it. All the egr, little hoses, VSVs, GARBAGE. NO check engine light either unless something is wrong. Steering pump and fuel pressure reg, thats all you need.

MAke sure your VALVES are set correctly to. Ive seen TONS of folks fight weird shit and replace things just to realize a valve or two is to tight.
 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
If the check engine light comes on,,,,

REMOVE it too! :beer:
It looks like once the EGR is removed, a resistor can be wired to the EGR plug and that will keep the CEL happy. I may give it a try if I dont get any results from what Im working on now.

Along with replacing the battery cables and grounds, Im going through the wiring harness. Everything looks good but I discovered the VSS and stop/brake signal wires where never hooked up. Most say they aren't needed but I read that they play a part in decel fuel trim/cut. Maybe I will get lucky.
 

CHOP SHOP

Active Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
11,498
Location
pierce county
Tinned copper is better, but not if you cant solder worth a shit.

I good mechanical connection is better than a shitty solder connection.
 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
I got my cables done. All 2 gauge welding cable, tinned lugs, marine shrink tube.







 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
I am wanting to up the ALT charge wire to 6 gauge.
I'm thinking my charging system could be wired better than it is. Most of what I am reading says I should run the "sense" wire up closer to the battery. It is currently tapped into the charge wire, about two feet from the ALT.

This is how things are now




Based on what I've read, Im thinking something like this may be better.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic...voltagesensing



I could use some suggestions and reassurance here, I don't want to burn up my truck.
 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
Here is a little update on this, almost a year later.

I re wired the ALT and fused the main power wires with MIDI fuses. I upgraded the charge wire to 6 awg and ran it and the sense wire to the power distribution bar, where everything is fused. I also Added a Blue sea fuse block (part 5045), that I will use to power any accessories I may add.



I found some of the soldered joints from the EFI swap where not looking so good. I'm not sure what exactly caused this, lack of marine shrink tube, mildly corrosive solder possibly?



I stripped down the harness and re did all the joints with BMW butt connectors and marine shrink tube. I also put a small shot of kester 245 no clean solder in the center where the wires come together (not shown in the pic). I was worried about using a solder that was possibly corrosive, so I contacted Kester. This was the response I got.

"44 is a good general purpose flux but for an automotive application I would recommend the no-clean 245 over that if you are just soldering copper wires. 44 is rated ROM1, where 245 is ROL0. If the residues are going to see the heat and moisture associated with automotive you will have a lower corrosion risk with 245. I’m not saying that 44 WILL corrode, it’s just that 44 is a stronger flux and there is a lesser risk with 245."

BMW connector part numbers
61138353746 - 0.2-0.5 MM²
61138353747 - 1.0-0.75 MM² (16-18 gauge)
61138353748 - 1.5-2.5 MM² (12-14 gauge)
61136931481 4-6 MM²

 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
While I was into the wiring, I hooked up the VSS wire (vehicle speed sensor) and the brake signal to the ECU. With these wires disconnected I had a VSS code and when coming to a quick stop my idle would dip down low, like 4-500 RPM and then smooth out. With these wires hooked up those issues are fixed. People like to say that the VSS and STP wires are not needed but that sure seems to be incorrect, if you want things to work right.

 

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
After all that, my volts at the battery are 14.37 with headlights off, 14.36 headlights on, 14.36 headlights/high beams on. So that's an improvement.

HOWEVER , the truck still idles rougher than I would like with the headlights or heater fan on.

I have discovered that with the alternator belt REMOVED the truck idles great, with the lights/heater on or off. I'm not sure what that means. I don't know what else to do, so I turned the idle up to 1000RPM which makes it more tolerable. I guess it is what it is for now.
I also have some BIG
:turtle:
upgrades waiting to be installed, So I will be looking forward to posting about that.

 
Last edited:

toyodaaddict

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Ravensdale wa.
Pulling my axle apart, I was surprised to find the passenger side spindle looking like this.



It looks to me like the surface the seal rides on has grooves wearing in it. When I pulled the hub assembly off there was an orange colored smear in the red grease. I'm thinking the seal might be letting a little water in.

Passenger side
Driver side

What do you guys think, time to replace it?
 

Latest posts

Top